Taste of Texas: BBQ and Wine
Texas Wine Collective – Carl’s Corner
Taste of Texas: BBQ and Wine
This Texas Wine Collective Taste of Texas: Barbecue and Wine, is scheduled on Sunday August 25, with sessions at 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm. Wine Educator Carl Hudson will host these sessions featuring 3 different barbecued meats flavored with 3 different sauces and paired with 6 wines from our TWC partners – Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery, and McPherson Cellars. While tasting the BBQ there will be a lively discussion of the concept and history of grilling and smoking meats, along with an exploration of what wines and wine flavors match with certain meats and BBQ sauce ingredients.
See the website for reservations and tickets: www.texaswinecollective.com.
Reservations and advanced ticket purchase are required for this event.
The proposed menu for this BBQ event includes the following
Smoked Turkey Breast with a spicy, aromatic sauce flavored with pineapple, ginger, pepper sauce, coconut milk, and soy sauce.
Pork Rib with a spicy North Carolina-style sauce flavored with apple cider vinegar, honey, Worcestershire, pepper sauce, rosemary, and thyme.
Beef brisket, first rubbed with a spicy mix of herbs, salt, and pepper, then smoked and grilled with a sauce flavored with ketchup, mustard, cayenne, cardamom, cumin, and apple cider vinegar.
The first step in pairing barbecue and wine is to identify one or two dominant elements in the dish and then look for a complementary element or two in the wine. The dominant element in a particular dish typically falls into one of three categories:
The primary ingredient (meat) 2. The cooking method 3. The sauce and/or side(s)
While thinking about these key elements, consider regional BBQ practices that have significantly influenced how turkey is prepared across the United States. In Southern states, BBQ turkey is often smoked using hickory wood, imparting a rich, smoky flavor. A marinade of citrus juice and/or vinegar, spices, and mustard can be used to achieve a distinctive taste profile. In Texas, BBQ turkey typically features robust flavors from dry rubs that contain chili powder, paprika, mustard, herbs, pepper, brown sugar, and cumin. The turkey is usually cooked at lower temperature for extended periods, resulting in tender, juicy meat.
Midwestern practices often involve brining the turkey before smoking. Brining ensures the meat remains moist and tender and applewood smoke tends to add a subtle sweetness to the turkey. On the West Coast, turkey prepared with more diverse and innovative flavors featuring ingredients like ginger, coconut milk, pineapple and citrus juices, soy and pepper sauces, and Asian spices reflect the region’s cultural and culinary diversity. Each regional variation brings unique flavors and techniques to BBQ turkey, showcasing the big bird’s versatility and appeal across different American culinary traditions.
It seemed appropriate for this first offering of peppered turkey breast to select from a lineup of juicy, fruit-forward, dry or off-dry wines like unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, white Rhône blends, Riesling, or a wide range of Rosé wines. Selected for today are two Texas Wine Collective favorites from McPherson Cellars in Lubbock. Each should pair well with the spicy, aromatic flavors of Peppered Turkey Breast.
McPherson Cellars Viognier 2021 Texas High Plains
Grape(s): Viognier 100% from Texas High Plains vineyards
Machine harvested fruit; pressed and fermented cold over 1 month in SS tanks; aged for about 9 months with lees stirring in SS tanks; blended and bottled @ 13.8% ABV, 0.3% RS (dry). Winemakers Kim McPherson and Spenser Igo do a great job with Rhône white grapes and this dry, crisp, refreshing Viognier is no exception. From its origin in the hilly northern Rhône Valley, Viognier has truly found a home on the High Plains of Texas. Aging in SS helps spotlight primary aromas and flavors of peach, apricot, pear, melon, honeysuckle blossoms, and pineapple. Pair this wine with bacon spinach artichoke dip, grilled sea bass, cheese enchiladas with avocado cream sauce, BBQ turkey or chicken, and peach-apple bread pudding for dessert.
McPherson Cellars Les Copains Rosé 2022 Texas High Plains
Grape(s): A blend of Rhône-based varieties from Texas High Plains vineyards
Les Copains in French means friends or partners. Kim McPherson and Spenser Igo have created a stellar blend by partnering Rhône-based grapes sourced from Texas High Plains vineyards. These grapes have become well-established on the Texas High Plains and are a key part of the McPherson portfolio. Mechanically harvested fruit was pressed; fermented cold at 52oF; aged in SS tank (no malolactic transformation); bottled @ 13.5% ABV, 0.2% RS (dry). Les Copains rosé calls to mind those from the Rhône Valley and Provence - French regions that have made dry rosé iconic. This dry rosé offers opulent fruit and aromatics: think strawberry, Meyer lemon, wildflowers, and watermelon with a finish that is both creamy and tingles with good acidity for food pairing and porch drinking alike! Enjoy this with simply prepared seafood dishes, mild cheeses, prosciutto wrapped honeydew melon slices, and BBQ’d chicken, turkey, or pork.
At one time considered a candidate as the national bird, turkeys were abundant in most parts of America. Barbecuing turkey dates back many centuries. Indigenous people of North America originally prepared wild turkey over smoky cooking fires and preserved meat strips by smoking. European settlers later adopted these techniques, integrating them into their own culinary practices. During the colonial era, turkey became a popular protein due to its abundance and affordability. Roasting or cooking meats over an open pit of hot coals was a common method that evolved, giving rise to modern BBQ methods that incorporate marinades, rubs, and smoking for added flavor. As settlers developed various colonies on the East Coast and then moved westward across the Appalachian Mountains into the Ohio and Mississippi River valleys they found an abundance of turkeys which carry a lot of meat for a bird. Even though turkeys are wary and sometimes difficult to kill, both Native Americans and early European settlers found ways to bring turkey to their cooking fires.
Fast-forward to the early 1900s, when Samuel Greenberg, a Jewish community leader, started smoking turkeys in Tyler, TX, to fill a need for kosher barbecue. The demand grew as smoked turkey became “the rage of the moment,” according to the Fort Worth Star-Telegram in 1939.
Brining involves soaking the turkey in a saltwater solution to enhance moisture content. Other ingredients including sugar and herbs like thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves, infuse more flavor. Marinating uses acidic solutions that include lemon juice or vinegar combined with oil and spices. Turkeys are usually brinded for 12 to 24 hours while marinating is mostly done for shorter periods of 4 to 10 hours. Both methods help the turkey meat to stay juicy during the BBQ process. Rubs are dry spice mixtures applied to the turkey’s surface at least an hour before cooking to create a flavorful crust. Common ingredients include paprika, garlic powder, black pepper, plus brown sugar for caramelization or cayenne for heat. Including a mixture of herbs, rosemary, thyme, and sage, will enhance a traditional turkey flavor. Rubbing the seasoning under the skin ensures deeper flavor penetration.
Grilling and smoking offer distinct approaches to BBQ turkey. Grilling uses high temperatures, usually between 350°F and 400°F. This method, often best for legs and thighs, produces crispy skin while keeping the meat juicy inside. Smoking uses low, consistent temperatures (225°F to 250°F) over several hours, infusing the turkey with a rich, smoky flavor. Hardwood varieties like hickory, apple, cherry, and mesquite add unique tastes. Smoking requires more time and patience but results in tender, flavorful meat.
Side dishes that pair well with BBQ turkey include roasted vegetables like carrots, potatoes, and Brussels sprouts that bring earthy flavors to enhance the smoky taste of turkey. A tangy coleslaw adds a crunchy texture and refreshing bite. Baked beans add a sweet and savory component while cornbread, with a slightly sweet and grainy texture, complements BBQ turkey perfectly. Macaroni and cheese offers a creamy, cheesy contrast to the turkey’s smokiness. And for many, a green salad with a light vinaigrette adds an uplifting fresh element to the meal.
Story excerpted from BBQ Turkey: History, Prep Tips, Techniques, and Perfect Pairings
By Jessie, June 14, 2024, https://faring-well.com/bbq-turkey/
Pork barbecue in North Carolina is serious business and can sometimes even become a politically charged subject. Two styles have developed over the years and both have enthusiastic supporters. Lexington or Western Style uses a red sauce, or "dip", made from vinegar, tomatoes, and usually red pepper sauce or flakes, along with other spices that vary from recipe to recipe. Pork shoulder is the part of the pig that is almost required and is the most common type of BBQ in the western areas of the state. Coleslaw is most often served alongside the meat with the red sauce used as a dressing or dip.
The other main style of Carolina BBQ is called Eastern and is said to use "every part of the hog except the squeal”. On special occasions a whole pig is cooked and served with flair for a larger group of people (this is called “pig pickin”, or in Louisiana, “cochon du lait”). The sauce is based on vinegar and black pepper with little or no tomato and is mostly used for seasoning either as a mop while the pork is cooking and/or poured on the finished meat. Coleslaw made with mayonnaise is the primary side dish, often served with pork in a sandwich.
The key ingredients that make North Carolina barbecue famous are pork for the meat and a taste of vinegar and pepper in the sauce. This combination calls for a complex wine with good acidity to balance the use of vinegar. However, the wines need not be too bold. Pork is a richer meat than chicken, but not so rich as beef, game, or even sausage. So, well-structured, medium-bodied reds with good acidity and plenty of fruit character work well with BBQ pork – wines like Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Rhône blends.
Brennan Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2020 Texas High Plains
Grape(s): Cabernet Franc 100%, sourced from Texas High Plains vineyards
Fruit was mechanically harvested and fermented in SS tank at 65-85oF; aged 24 months in used American and French oak barrels; bottled @ 13.4% ABV, 0% RS (dry). Cabernet Franc is one of the noble varieties for production of the famous red wines of Bordeaux. It has proven to be a good producer here in the warmer, drier climates of Texas. This wine has a lovely garnet color with brick rim, medium-plus concentration, and aromas of black cherry, black currant, rhubarb, beet greens, and dried tobacco leaf. Flavors on the palate are black currant, ripe strawberry, cherry, white pepper, with notes of baking spice and vanilla cream from oak aging. The wine offers layers of complexity and a well-balanced finish with softer, silky tannins. This is a noble effort that pairs well with most BBQ, wild game dishes, truffle and burrata-topped pastas, and German chocolate cake.
McPherson Cellars Sangiovese 2021 Texas High Plains
Grape(s): Sangiovese 100%, sourced from Lahey Vyds, Brownfield, TX,
Terry Cty, and Sagmor Vyd near Lubbock, TX
Mechanically harvested fruit was fermented 10 days in SS tank with overall 25-day skin contact; aged 14 months in French oak barrels (20% new); bottled @ 13.7% ABV, 0.2% RS (dry). With this flagship wine Kim McPherson and Spenser Igo pay homage to Doc McPherson who was the first in Texas to plant Sangiovese in Sagmor Vineyard on the High Plains in the 1970s. Aromas and flavors include red liquorice, black cherry cola, white pepper, and nuances of vanilla and baking spices. This is a dry, medium-bodied wine with a soft mouth feel and a rich, smooth finish. Sangiovese pairs especially well with dishes containing tomato sauce (sausage pizza, spaghetti Bolognese, and cheesy lasagna), stuffed mushrooms, and grilled meats – pork, turkey, chicken, and sausage.
There have been feuds, usually light-hearted, over which style is real Carolina BBQ. In 2006 bills were introduced in the state legislature with the goal of declaring one or the other style as the official North Carolina BBQ. Neither bill passed. In 2007 a compromise, NC House Bill 433 passed, granting the Lexington Barbecue Festival the title of "Official Food Festival of the Piedmont Triad Region (western) of the State of North Carolina". This effectively bypassed any controversy regarding Eastern region barbecue and prevented confusion that would have resulted by naming a singular, official style of barbecue for the entire state.
While North Carolina can claim fame for BBQ pork, the concept of slow cooking any and every part of the pig has spread throughout the country. For example, Memphis is famous for pork ribs, often called baby back ribs, and most every state claims some version of tasty pork ribs, including Texas with a range of sweet to spicy sauces. BBQ pork tenderloins have become a common option and one of my favorite methods is stuffing the loin with bacon strips and a flavorful sauce like Fischer Wieser Raspberry Chipotle or their new Bacon Chipotle sauce with molasses. A good dose of yellow mustard, in and out, really enhances the flavor profile.
Like in North Carolina, various cooking options are found throughout the country. Oftentimes "barbecuing" and "grilling" are used interchangeably. However, grilling more specifically refers to the use of higher temperature dry heat from the source (wood, charcoal, gas) applied directly to cook the meat more quickly. Barbecuing, also called smoking, is a slower process where lower temperature heat is applied indirectly via hot smoke, providing a distinctly smoky flavor to the meat.
Story adapted from Wikipedia
Texas Monthly magazine has covered the Texas BBQ scene for many years, often publishing an edition on the Top 50 BBQ joints in the state. Most Texas BBQ is focused on beef, especially brisket, where high impact grilling over wood heat, usually from mesquite or oak, and a less-sweet sauce based on mustard and vinegar are used to produce rather intense flavors. Beef is a heavier meat and with a rich sauce that can also contain tomato along with mustard, a bigger red wine with complexity and intensity is called for, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Syrah, bold Rhône red blends, and Zinfandel. The brisket for this event was treated with a spicy dry rub of herbs, salt, and pepper, then smoked and grilled with a mopping sauce flavored with ketchup, mustard, Worcestershire cayenne, cardamom, cumin, and apple cider vinegar.
Lost Oak Winery Petit Verdot 2020 Texas
Grape(s): Petit Verdot 100%, Sprayberry Vyd, Midland, TX
These grapes were machine harvested; fermented in SS tank; underwent malolactic transformation; aged about 19 months in used oak barrels; bottled @ 12.6% ABV, 0% RS (dry). This dark, full-flavored wine shows off the versatility of this important Bordeaux grape variety typically added to Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot-based blends at 4-10%. Petit Verdot adds darker color, richer flavor, and better tannin structure to many Bordeaux blends, as well as similar wines across the world. Alone, Petit Verdot can produce a tannic wine with unpleasant astringency, UNLESS techniques are used to soften tannins and highlight the fruit. Winemakers Jim Evans and Angela Chapman have created a rich, relatively low in alcohol, palate pleasing version of Petit Verdot that pairs with sage and prosciutto pasta, sausage rigatoni with vodka sauce, veal or chicken parmesan, and BBQ ribs and beef.
Brennan Vineyards Pat’s Tribute Red Blend 2019 Texas
Grape(s): A proprietary blend of Nero d’Avola, Carmènére, Graciaño, and Cabernet Franc sourced from both Central Texas and High Plains vineyards
The JPB Tribute is a bold red wine honoring the late Dr. Pat Brennan, founder of Brennan Vineyards. Dr. Brennan's favorite wines were fruit forward, bold reds full of texture and depth. This complex blend delivers just that. The label design showcases Pat’s personal connection with all Brennan Vineyards by featuring a handwritten script taken from winemaking notes over the years. The grape varieties were fermented separately in SS tanks or bins. Cuvées received regular punch-downs during fermentation (avg. 10 days) to enhance juice-to-skin contact for greater flavor and tannin extraction, and to provide sufficient air contact (oxygen) for optimum yeast activity. Once fermentation was completed, juice was pressed from the skins, settled in tanks, and racked into used American and French oak barrels for aging – average 24 months. The various cuvées were eventually blended to provide the flavor characteristics winemaker Todd Webster desired, and the wine was bottled @ 14.4% ABV, 0% RS (dry).
The wine offers a deep garnet color with a pale rim; aromas of black cherry, cassis, cocoa, and violet petals; flavors of plums, black currants, roasted coffee beans, wet stone, and hints of leather and cedar. The finish is rich with medium-tannins. Pair this with coffee/cocoa powder/pepper-rubbed beef steaks, game birds and venison, grilled pork tenderloins, and smoky Texas BBQ!
Brisket History in Texas
Long ago it was common to pit cook whole, half, or quarter cuts of beef for community or ranch celebrations, and people ate the cut of smoked meat they were served. In the late 1950s the meat packing industry began to separate cuts of beef and ship them in boxes to customers. Black’s BBQ in Lockhart claims they were the first to use brisket cuts exclusively on their menu. By the 1960s the beef purveyor IBP was shipping individual cuts of beef in boxes and many BBQ joints started focusing on brisket, then a relatively inexpensive cut of meat. Joe Capello of City Market in Luling remembers separating the forequarter from the carcass which led to the cross-cut chuck portion being smoked in the pit. Customers would just order beef, fatty or lean. The menu at Smitty’s Market in Lockhart harkens back to these menu options - “Lean” means shoulder clod and “Fat” means brisket.
Allen Prine in Wichita Falls sold hams and beef, but not specific cuts like brisket. The whole beef forequarter was cut into 10-11 different pieces and cooked much like we do brisket today. Allen doesn’t remember serving brisket on its own until the 1970s-80s when cryo-vac’d packages of boneless brisket became available.
Institutional Meat Purchase Specifications (IMPS) were first published in 1958, setting standards for predictably cut portions of beef sold in boxes into the market. By 1965 almost every market, including mom and pop BBQ joints, began purchasing boxed meats including IMPS item #120, beef brisket.
Another key factor in developing brisket as a classic BBQ staple was the impact of Steve Olson, a cattle rancher in upstate NY. He worked for the USDA and was given the job to overhaul the IMPS specifications. He focused on traditional butchering methods that used the top edge of brisket as a dividing line in the processing of beef forequarters. Early on the bones near this edge were probably included in the brisket cut, but cryo-vac representatives complained that the bones punctured their packaging. So, the specs for brisket were changed and the boneless cut we now know became standard.
Some of earliest mentions of smoked beef brisket came from 1910 newspaper advertisements from two grocery stores in El Paso. These two stores were serving smoked brisket from their deli counters to mostly Jewish clientele along with other traditionally Jewish food items like smoked whitefish and Kosher sausage. In 1916 the Weil Brothers in Corpus Christi advertised their smoked brisket. The store was owned by Alex and Moise Weil whose Jewish father immigrated to Texas from Alsace, France in 1867. Pastrami (cured brisket) and smoked brisket are common items on Jewish menus, and the Weil Store sold both pastrami and regular smoked brisket. It was probably served on a plate rather than on butcher paper like in the famous Central Texas BBQ meccas that only began listing smoked brisket on their menus some 40 years later.
Because of Kosher food requirements, it makes sense that Jewish immigrants would focus on brisket from the forequarter as an important and revered part of their cuisine, especially for the Passover celebration. It appears that smoked brisket made it into Jewish grocery markets and delis in far west Texas long before it became the staple we now celebrate in the famous central Texas BBQ joints.
Story adapted from a Texas Monthly article by Daniel Vaughn, 24-Jan-2014